The white wise lady of Bruges
From the moment dusk falls until around midnight, the White Lady wanders around the Minnewater. Many have already seen it, few dare to talk about it.
Older people from Bruges still remember that she was a Scottish lady married to a French officer. But one day her husband suddenly disappeared. It was whispered that she had first deceived and bewitched him and then poisoned him. They were just rumors, but you know how it goes... the more there were whispers, the more the rumor was believed to be true. No one knew how the lady ended up in Bruges. She had little contact with the townspeople.
After the death of her husband, she led a retired life in the Bruges Begijnhof. Only occasionally, after mass, did she exchange a few words with the other women who lived there. Sometimes she looked impatiently through the curtains, as if she were expecting someone else, but she never had a visitor. She often went for walks alone in the city. She was sometimes seen under the trees on the Dijver, but her favorite spot was the banks of the Minnewater and the Netelbos. That is the current Minnewaterpark. In winter she always wore a long pale white cloak, in summer often a long white dress, and she always had a white parasol in her hand. She was called “the white lady”.
One day she disappeared. It had taken days to realize she was gone. An investigation was launched but none was learned. The house she rented was clean and in order. Portraits of her French officer were everywhere. There was an open inkwell on the table. There was a note next to it. A kind of farewell message: “I am going to look for my dear druid. Farewell!"
The mystery of her disappearance was never solved. Even the Minnewater was drained in vain. But when it is dark, her shadow is spotted here and there in the Minnewater Park and on the Minnewater. Sometimes she stands on the bridge over the Minnewater, or she suddenly appears - dressed entirely in white - behind a bush or a tall tree. She then waves shyly and asks pleadingly: “Oh dear Druid, come with me.”
Walking through Bruge, searching for the Minnewater park and the Begijnhof, I started to see white ribbons as if these were marks guiding me to the lady. First I saw them at the bridge over the water, and later one at the Begijnhof (see last image).
A willow just outside the Begijnhof
And then I found the Begijnhof, close to the park. This is the place mentioned in the folktale. Apparently this is a place where only (single or widowed) women are allowed to live, there are many places like this in the world. They decide to devote their lives to faith and to live with themselves. And today some women still live in this secluded, quiet, with nature filled oasis of a place. It wasn't allowed to take images, and you had to be quiet for the women not to be bothered too much (as this was a touristic highlight of Bruges).
The entrance of the Begijnhof
So I took images secretly, with the camera close to my body, sometimes lifting it quickly without looking through the lens, just clicking. But didn't feel too good about it.
Inside begijnhof (secretly taken)
Begijnhof (secretly taken)
This was the inside of an empty house within the Begijnhof
A tree climbing over the walls of the Begijnhof
As it felt wrong taking pictures when I was asked not to, I started to focus on finding postcards of the place. I bought a couple in a shop run by nuns. This one was of the Minnenwater, the place the white lady loved the most. I could have taken an image of the place myself, but this one felt more close to the time she had wandered around the park.
A swan passing by, in the water that separated the Begijnhof from the busy city.
Another tree living on the border of both worlds
Postcard of Minnenwater. Maybe this is where she sometimes sat to ook over the water.
The white ribbons, surprisingly, followed me until the very inside of the Begijnhof. This one was on the door to the well. Evidence?
Inside the Begijnhof, there was another secluded area, very small. It had plants, flowers and a well. There was also a small exhibition on the information of the place and the nuns living there. But it was mostly about religion, so no clues about the white lady. This is an archival image I saw at the exhibition.
How the secluded place with the well looks like now
Found inside the Begijnhof
A nun walking through Begijnhof. I wonder if the white lady had looked like this when she was living here.
A little house within the Begijnhof. I'd like to think that this is where she lived.
Brugge, Belgium, September 2023